The Kenyan Top Bar Hive

[La Ferme du Marais]

Here some information and how to create a KTBH Hive, sorry for the translation it's a Google translation

My Kenyan hive "KTBH" second model

Published May 16, 2015

E n 2014, I presented my first 7 KTBH Kenyan hives, modeled on those generally realized by beekeeping projects in Senegal and based on the plan AFVP (see article on my first Kenyan).In 2015, thanks to my new sponsors / mairrraines, I was able to build 7 new Kenyan. However, listening to the advice of each other, I have made ​​some small changes, improvements and bonuses. I present to you my second model Kenyan hive which comes in two versions: a glazed version and a non-glazed.

L es 2015 amendments concern:

• The height of the hive, reduced to 25cm instead of 30cm,
  
• 2 side vents,
  
• Entrance holes instead of the classical input in length,
  
• A device "Anti-crushing" of bees,
  
• Strips of 32,5mm ... really!
  
• And optional side window to observe the development of settlements in the least possible disruption.
  

 

End of the article, you'll also be entitled to some tips for construction and a nice homemade map!

My carpenter Diakhité Mamadou, who patiently made and remade the hive until all is the right size ;-)

DECREASE HEIGHT HIVE: While my previous hive was 30 cm high, as shown in most plans found on the internet, I decided to reduce the height to 25 cm. Indeed, the experience of each other, it turns out that the 30 cm shelves built by bees become too heavy when filled with honey. When the heat is intense, the wax begins to melt ... they then collapse under their own weight, logic. I myself have seen many problems of collapse ray Tambacounda. I thought that a good protection against the sun suffice to counter this problem, but undoubtedly reduce the height of the hive is more effective.

Reducing the height can actually reduce the weight of the hive, which is always good to take.Certainly, one does not move his Kenyan daily, but if necessary it provides significant comfort.Yes but suddenly, decreasing the height of the hive, it reduces its volume and thus the amount of honey that we will also reap ... you risk saturating the hive and promote faster spin too early Yes ... of course, when it does not monitor its hive, it's a risk. But I think for my part reap several times a year, without waiting for the hive is full to bursting, and this for the good of bees like honey quality. Then one in the other, I think reducing the height of the hive is a good option.

Second model of my Kenyan hive, less high and therefore lighter than the previous.

2 vents SIDE: After recording temperatures above 40 ° C in the empty Kenyan hives on my land, I must say that I have a little panicked and I regretted not having planned ventilation system in my first hives. Yet in the Bundu, all hives were made ​​without good and the bees seem to live with it ... perhaps also because after a while the wood plays, creates spaces and therefore its own ventilation. In short, my new hives, I told myself I was going to innovate. I have long hesitated between a grid floor, fully or partially ... but the fact of putting a large amount of mesh liked half: lower strength of the hive, less protection against predators, too much air bees, honeybees risk that hang below (according to Yves) ...

It was by the advice of Jacques I thought to side vents. The principle is simple: the inputs are a breath of fresh air, and side vents placed above allow the warm air to escape. I realized several holes in order to modulate the ventilation by closing the holes as required. Of course, we must grillager the holes to prevent lizards, insects or mice can not go. This is a test, we'll see how it works.

At first I thought to make a rectangle, but eventually the "air holes" is more interesting: one can thus modulate the ventilation by closing one or more holes.

In passing, we note the angle of 115 ° ... Attention for European bees, we must calculate precisely 120 ° to the risk that the rays glued to the walls. For African bees, so no risk no worries!

Always grillager vents in case of adverse trying to enter the hive. I got a little upset with bedbugs, but now I think it takes ;-)

INPUT OF HOLES: It is also by the advice of Jacques I wanted to test the entrance holes ... according to him, I will not regret it! Apparently, the bees prefer this to the board of me off ... I want to believe it, so might as well try! I kept my system 2 inputs from both sides, the second inlet being open only during heavy honey. I just hope the monkeys stop to come poking bits of foam that I use to plug the holes because it starts to do well! Little rascals ...

AN ANTI-mashing BEE: It is by reading the book of Paterson I found this little trick that seems great. This is to minimize the contact surfaces of the roof and strips, to limit the risk of crushing bees closing the hive. Indeed, when visiting a hive or that one night harvest, the bees leave the hive and roam the outer walls. D lready there not see much at night, you want to hurry because we are in the process of being eaten, in short, is closed too quickly stuffing the bars as we can and we doubt that we are in massacring bees that had been kind enough not to jump at our throats ... In short, the galley!

I will explain the system: the inclined walls of the Kenyan hive should not be beveled cutting, so that the strips rest directly on one of the stop plate. Thus, if bees are on top of the hive, they can more easily escape the bar. In addition, it allows to easily slide the strips in one piece.Second, the side walls must be slightly higher so that the roof is based solely on the two side walls and not on all strips. The bees will be on top of the bars will be spared and will come down after the sides. This method eliminates the need to make a rebate on the walls, or the batten inside ... easier to build!

Special device "anti-crushing of bees" side obliquely and webs which rest on the stops, and elevated side walls.

On this side, we see better the raised wall on which will rest the roof, leaving a small space not to crush the bees closing the hive.

The modules are based on the stops, leaving space for the bees when placed strips.

The bars no longer rest on the bracket plate, the separator can therefore slide more easily!

BARS OF 32.5 MM: If we must respect one measure precisely, it is indeed the width of the strips. Theoretically 32 or 33 mm for the African bee. Despite my recommendations, I have all the pain of the world has to enforce this measure by my carpenter. Suddenly, I found this little trick in a tropical beekeeping guide: the "cap-measure." With a little patience, we inevitably find a plug that has the right size ... I got a honey bottle cap, it fits perfectly, it must be fate!

The small cap 32,5mm magic!

26 strips 32,5mm, taking a few mm margin against the bars are too hard to remove, we get a good result with an interior length of 85,5cm.

OPTION "HIVE WINDOW": This tempted me for a while, but I had not yet realized.So I decided to test the observation windows on two Kenyan hives, will I put in different apiaries, to see the development of settlements more easily. As I read that bees can not enjoy the contact with the glass, I merely two hives, but we'll see what happens. The glass is 61x14cm, which seemed big enough without being too fragile. The protective flap is necessary to hide the bees from light and heat. It is maintained by small hinges and latches ... simple!

 

The hatch of the protective glass, held by two hinges at the bottom and2 latches on the side.

The open door ...

Inside view: The glass is held by cleats. Not ideal because you can no longer use because of the separator edges ... if I had propolis, I would have tried to stick it, but that's for next time!

PLAN: This is the plan of my beehives, made ​​stupidly Power Point, I hope he can help some! The data correspond to dimensions of 2,25cm thick wood and the trapezium angle is 115 °.

How to calculate the bases of the trapezoid to accurately obtain an angle of 115 °? Petit during trig out of the closet ... So remember Tangent, which is equal to the opposite side to the adjacent side in a triangle. We want to know the large base of the trapezium (x) knowing that the small base is 20 cm, height 25 cm, and the angle of 115 ° ...

x = (2 × 25 × tan (115-90)) + 20 = 43.3 cm, 43.5 cm rounded

So, for those wishing to obtain a 120 ° angle specifically for European bees for example, would require:

x = (2 × 25 × tan (120-90)) + 20 = 48.9 cm, rounded to 49 cm

This therefore significantly expanded the width of the hive! You decide whether you prefer it or if you choose to reduce the base ... I'll let you do the math as great now that you have the formula!

 

The different elements

Written by Claire